Understanding the Value of Handmade Jewellery: The Lost Wax Process

Every year we participate in a series of events where we have the opportunity to meet the public, get their opinion and answer their questions, one that we receive very often is: "Why is handmade jewellery so expensive?" The truth is, every piece we create is the result of days of meticulous work. In this series of posts, we want to take you behind the scenes and show you the different techniques we use to bring our designs to life, where an idea comes from and the way we work.

Lost Wax Casting

Today, we start with one of the oldest and most intricate methods: the lost wax casting process, we use it for some products and with different materials, but on this occasion we will talk about the production using Fairmined certified silver and gold.

Concept & design

Every piece begins with an idea. We sketch our designs, refining shapes and proportions until we are satisfied with the final look. This stage alone can take several days, sometimes the ideas rumble in our heads for months, as we carefully consider how the whole project will translate into metal.

To better explain the lost wax process we will leave this stage of design behind and continue from the moment the project is complete, we have prototyped and tested the pieces, and all we need to do is “make the final product”. 

Digital Prototyping & Wax Carving

When an order goes through we have to adapt the 3d model to the size and requirements of the client, to then produce the 3D-printed model in a wax based resin, clean it and refine it, so the cast piece has as little imperfections as possible. This process requires precision and patience, as the surface of the wax is very delicate and every detail: marks, scratches or dents will be passed onto the jewel.

Depending on the complexity of the piece, this stage can take anywhere from a few hours to several days.

Wax Casting

Since Fairmined metals must be traced from their extraction to the moment of sale, we must send our wax models to a specialised lab that is certified to ensure the traceability of the silver or gold we are using, this is an essential part of our production process. This step adds an additional week to our timeline, but it guarantees that the metals used in our jewellery are ethically sourced.
At the lab, the wax model is attached to a sprue (a wax rod that will create channels for the metal) and placed in a cylindrical flask. A heat-resistant plaster, known as investment, is poured around the wax model and left to harden.
The flask is heated in a kiln at high temperatures, causing the wax to melt and evaporate, leaving behind a perfect cavity in the shape of the original design. This is where the technique gets its name because the wax is "lost" in the process.

Metal Casting

Molten Fairmined metal is poured into the cavity, filling the space where the wax once was. This requires careful temperature control and precision to ensure the metal flows properly into all details of the design. After cooling, the plaster is broken away, revealing the raw metal piece.

Cleaning the Cast Piece

Once the casting is complete, the lab sends the raw metal piece back to us. At this stage, the cast object is still rough and covered with oxidation. We carefully remove the sprues, file away imperfections, and begin the finishing process, sanding and polishing, that brings out the smooth finish and shine, making the piece truly come to life. Depending on the design, additional refining techniques such as engraving or texturing may be applied.

Shipment

Before the piece reaches its new owner, we meticulously inspect it for any flaws, ensuring it meets our standards. Once approved, it is carefully packaged and ready to be picked up by a partner shipping company. The parcel’s journey depends on different factors which we have very little control over, but the client always has the possibility to track the shipment and we do our best to keep the client informed of any inconvenience.
We love it when the client contacts us to let us know the parcel has arrived to destination! And tells us how much they like the product and give us feed back. For an online market, this interaction is very welcome.

Each of these steps requires time, skill, and passion. When you purchase handmade jewellery, you are not just buying an object you are investing in a story, a piece of artistry, and a labour of love.

In future posts, we’ll take you through other necessary processes to craft our pieces. Stay tuned, and thank you for supporting handmade craftsmanship!